Phu Quoc, Vietnam

Well, here’s what I’ve learned about writing in the last 7 weeks: when you’re not relaxed, you’re not ready for it. I had (have?) lovely intentions for the blog, but I haven’t been in the proper mindset to bring them to fruition. I have managed to fill a few more pages in my journal recently—hooray!—as I’ve been managing to finally unwind, but before I hit you with my musings from Indonesia, let’s rewind blog train to my birthday.

Recap!

There are a few select traditions I’ve insisted on over the past several years that I work hard to preserve.

Step 1: Get a new passport stamp. Check! Good morning, Vietnaaaaam.

Step 2: Receive a happy birthday serenade from Momma and Poppa H. Check! They even had two chocolate cupcakes aflame on their end atop the Special Day Plate. They wished for my happy and safe travels before successfully blowing out the plastic 2 and 9. Bonus: Dad called me an “old hoe” before signing off, claiming it’s something he says now, citing a work story involving “ho, ho, ho.”

Step 3: Chocolate cake. Partial check. Is it my fault for not mastering the words for chocolate sponge in Vietnamese before scootering to the bakery? I was wary at the salesgirl’s hesitant nod, my pointer finger pressed against the glass next to a particularly festive slab of sugar. My worries were quickly dismissed, however, watching my name curlicue its way onto the frosting. Even more of a thrill: getting to select my own plastic candles and complimentary cake knife, to the tune of “LOOK AT MY CAKE, LOOK AT MY CAKE!” We motored home, one arm clamped possessively over the pastel pink baker’s box, the other clutching Eric excitedly around the middle. Hours later we would discover the 9 to be fire resistant; the innards of our dessert to be 5 parts angel food, 1 part a mysterious, gelatinous substance looking eerie caramelized onions. The garbage ate the majority of my cake. The chocolate hard shell, while tragically misleading, was at least salvageable thanks to one E. J. Thovson.

On top of the basic requisites, we managed a beautiful day to celebrate my 29th year. After a a plateful of a banana pancakes, we headed north on the scooter in search of alcohol with a paper umbrella garnish. Through Duong Dong town center, over an abandoned airport runway, and up the coast, we dropped our first anchor at a beachside resort. No umbrella, but a glossy maraschino cherry decorated my first attempt at intoxication. Pressing ahead, over dusty red roads, pitted with a minefield of shallow ponds and jagged rocks, we made camp again along the shore. No booze to be found, but also no tourists. Seemed like a good opportunity for no clothes, and a lazy float in the shallows appropriately clad in my birthday suit. The water was so warm, I told Eric he better stop peeing in the ocean, which generated no laughter but my own. (I think I’m a lot more hilarious than he does.) Following a proper swim and documentation with the underwater camera set-up, we dried off, and bump bump bumped back into town. Another drink—WHERE are the umbrellas to be found?!—an Indian feast, and an adventure to the harbor market rounded out a day of brilliant festivities.

Good to meet you, 29. You’re off to a great start.

Abandoned airport terminal. My favorite place on the island.

Refraction 101. Dammit…

Thinking: Eric better not be getting my shoes in this shot.

Duong Dong night market.

Cathedral Cove

Today has been the type of day that makes you doubt there’s any other REAL alternative to van living. The kind so full of sunshine, smiles, and small adventures that makes you beam, end to end. This is what I hoped this trip would be like. Of course, with the exception of my 6AM sobs this morning, in realizing that we never set an extra alarm and that the sun was rising without my permission nor my participation. Damn.

We were camped overnight at Cathedral Cove with the intention to take advantage of a good weather forecast and take some long exposures before the masses awoke and arrived. Four AM came and went and we were soon back asleep following the lone alarm. Two hours later I was the one sounding the distress call that Eric still doesn’t quite know what to do with: tears.

After hauling ass down to the Cove, still whimpering that we were missing out on the entire show, we made it 10 minutes before the sun was to crest the horizon. We promptly scouted a flat rock and sat down to wait. I put my camera aside, I rested my head on Eric’s shoulder, and I focused my gaze seaward. Exhaaaaale. And the reset button was engaged swiftly, yet gently.

Why do I get so fixated on having specific experiences? Why do I allow myself to set such high, inflexible expectations that don’t adapt to reality? Why do I even need photographs? Why is it so hard to accept and enjoy what’s before me, with the understanding that this beautiful moment, whatever it is, is the one I’ve been given, still deserving of my appreciation despite my expectations?

The day that followed (is following!) was superb after all the selfish sobbing was mopped up/stopped up. We parked the van at Hahei Beach and wallowed in it’s sunny windows like lazy cats all morning. With the sound of the waves in our ears, cups of hot coffee in hand, we allowed ourselves the rest of the day to do nothing.

Being allowed to “do nothing” does sound admittedly silly, given that we are the navigators of this adventure, but it’s not always an easy concept. I can’t speak for Eric, but I oftentimes feel like I’m expected to be collecting a certain amount of stories and photographs, living up to the “I’m so jealous!” comments that have been populating our social media streams since this trip began. I don’t want anyone to live vicariously through me! I don’t want the pressure to produce, however self imposed it may actually be, to prove that my wandering is relevant! I want to live in my van, read books, drink wine, and make out with my boyfriend. Why do I think I’m expected to do otherwise?

And it’s funny to me, that in letting ourselves off the hook for the day, that we ended up stumbling sweetly upon our small adventures, born out of genuine desire and joy.

I went for a solo walk down the beach, closing my eyes at intervals to better experience the onset of every wave. It was a true fucking delight. It was mindfulness.

I found a rope swing. I was able to coerce Eric into the position of pusher, being too chickenshit to jump from the tree to which it was attached. Dangling from that rope, watching my personal tide go out and come in, was the most concentrated form of basic pleasure.

Later, we each indulged in a scoop of mochaccino ice cream from the Tip Top case, a short walk away at the general store. We licked our cones, lapping up the cream, while reading the community notice board and appraising the for sale properties posted up outside the shop.

Throw in salami sandwiches, a swim, and some intermittent dozing, and I’m ready to award this day as one of the very best in the last 5 months. Today we let things happen. And they happened to be utterly delightful.

-K

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^Our Pinnacles hike in the Coromandel Peninsula. A composite on the left (Eric didn’t reckon endangering our lives for a photo was a good idea) and the fern filled trail to get there.

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^Scared AF. The rest of the photos at this location are of my clinging to the rocks for dear life.
^It’s fall in the Southern Hemisphere. Heh.

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^Cathedral Cove + one of New Zealand’s most famous hunks of rock.

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^ My dear. 

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^”Now go stand alone on that rock and look off.” Secret to Instagram success right there, I tell ya.
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^My happy place.

2016-05-10_0018 2016-05-10_0019^Eric’s anatomy wasn’t quite suited for the rope swing. I did manage a few snaps before he dismounted, grabbing his crotch. More swing time for meeee! 🙂

Dunedin

Wet sand.
Crying gulls.
Fading daylight.

Eric’s hand is intertwined in my left, a generous pour of sauvignon blanc in my right. I gulp in the salty wind and sweet wine in equal measure. The beach is deserted; the world is wonderful.

And then–
Suddenly–

My love abruptly disentangles his five fingers to more wildly gesticulate, shouting to be heard above the waves. Alarmed, I followed his gaze, eyes frantically searching the horizon.

We are no longer alone on the beach.

My body is quicker than my brain. Immediately my legs engage. Wine sloshes up and over the rim of my glass as my arms pump forward, synchronized to the steps of my sprint. The chase narrows my focus, quickens my pace. Eric is no longer beside me, his path diverged, our impulses selfish, from the moment we spotted the dark, solitary figure haunting the dunes ahead.

The gap between us is closing. I will my body forward–faster. Dressed in black, top to bottom, he’s now close enough to make out his features. The whites of his eyes are yellow. I can see the sinister set of his shoulders as he poises for an attack.

He holds my gaze for two beats.
Three.
I try to control my breathing as my heart beats madly on.
Four.

“ERIC! TH-TH-THE PENGUIN! HE’S–PENGUIN!”

And the trance is broken.
The bird, shuffling his stunted limbs through the last stretch of sand, breaks his gaze, waddles behind the dunes, and disappears.

“DID YOU SEE?! THAT THING WAS ACTUALLY KIND OF NASTY. BUT, SHIT! A PENGUIN!”

NZ bucket list CHECK!

-K

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^ No penguin pics, but this was a self portrait taken on THEE beach. THE PENGUIN BEACH, yah-yuh.

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^ Take two. Here’s to three months with no make-up. Yippeeeeee!

Waihao Box

I had the beach all to myself this morning. I sat in my little pile of pebbles to watch the sun rise over the Pacific. What started out as “I’m too cold” and “This is taking too long” slowly morphed into “This is all for me?!” and “Mmm, now I want cotton candy.” By the end of my 30 minute vigil I was literally laughing, cheering, and tearing up, witnessing the full procession of light + color parade across the sky. Life’s certainly grand if you allow it to be.

-K

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^Eric, meanwhile, refused to be moved. 😉

To Greymouth

Gripped by terror, seized with rage, we are a people at war. Public enemy #1: Austrosimulium australense. Our adversaries in this battle are a formidable lot, with an indefatigable army, limitless reserves, and a monumental thirst for blood.

It’s cousin, the Minnesota mosquito, is an almost graceful creature in contrast. The whine and shimmer of wings gives the victim advance warning to allow for a fair fight, time to strategize a defense. While the mosquito is satisfied with one elegant little pinprick, the sandfly is a more feral beast. As soon as the insect makes contact with the enemy, it appears to burrow it’s entire head in the victim’s flesh, hitting hard, striking fast. The New Zealand predator also runs a more discreet operation, it’s prey unaware of it’s presence until it’s too late. The abominable bug treads lightly, silently bringing it’s brethren into formation, for a forward march onto any and all exposed areas of skin. After generations of combat, these bloodsuckers have learned to target their opponent’s feet and ankles, exploiting the least sensitive areas, for highest profitability.

Defensive strategies on our side include barricading ourselves in the van against siege attacks, applying layers of spray repellent in vain, windmill arms, and tucking our pants into our socks. No man, woman, or child is safe until these creatures are vanquished. This. Is. War.

-K

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^ Looks idyllic, eh? ALMOST.

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^ “This is hell.” (But a beautiful version, to be sure. I’m a sucker for a swing bridge.)

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^ This is what we’re working with, people. I count 15 just in this photo. But that could also be a dirty computer monitor. BEASTS!

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^ And now a few photos of me reading a book, drinking a beer on the beach so we may end on a happy note.

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Life really is lovely. Cheers. 🙂